Basic rules for pruning woodland trees
When?
The main broadleaved trees to be pruned will be oak, ash, cherry and walnut and only those other trees whose clean and valuable stems will add to the landowner's store of capital. The optimum time for pruning will be from mid June to mid August for these species. Avoid the dormant season when wounds are susceptible to infection and periods of prolonged drought or frost.
How much?
The first operation is to ensure that the tree has a strong and single leader by removing the obvious competitors. At the same time remove the thickest branches from the stem at the first pruning and tip prune the other branches which prevents them developing compensating large size. Severe pruning promotes a vigorous growth reaction; if a tree is unbalanced you should actually prune the side of weak growth severely in the hope of obtaining one or two vigorous branches. This is called remedial or compensatory pruning and is opposite to your first natural impulse. Aim for a balanced crown by continuous small removals. Remove epicormics with your hand or a sharp pruning knife. Consider the height of the tree and aim for one third balanced crown, one third clear stem (carcassing) and one third butt wood (veneer quality). Continue pruning until you have 6.5 metres clear stem. Pruning should be completed when the dbh (diameter and breast height) is 12/15 cms (approx, 5 inches).
How many?
Don't attempt to prune every tree. Some badly formed trees
can never be corrected and with Cherry and Oak, in particular,
bad form tends to be genetic and the fault will repeat itself.
Select and prune 250 to 300 stems per hectare at spacings
of 5.5 to 6,5 metres. The first rule is to identify trees
at final spacing, probably 10 metres or 100 stems per hectare.
If selected trees are pruned heavily in dense stands, where
necessary, thin around them otherwise their dominance may
be lost. If you cannot find a good possibility in the right
spot, look for a tree to stump back approx. 3 inches above
ground level, reguard it and
allow it to reshoot as a better tree.
Finally
Cut live branches strictly in accordance with the photographs. Don't leave a coat peg and don't cut too close ~r flush into the bark ridge which is the trees natural defence against decay and infection.
Pruning is fun and is one of the most important and satisfying elements of broadleaved lowland forestry. It ensures the optimum standing value per hectare in the shortest time since removing unproductive side branches is shown to increase vigour, stem diameter and adds increment further up the stem making it more cylindrical and valuable.
Within a few years your woodland is transformed and will begin to close canopy sooner.
The Four Stages
- Sort out and select the single leader first -3 years onwards.
- Remove the larger branches first, keeping the tree in balance. 'Tip' prune the opposite branches i.e. remove up to one third of the branch.
- Stump back to just above ground level (approximately 10 cms) the obvious failures, reguard and allow to reshoot and start again.
- A balanced tree should be two thirds stem and one third crown with a good vigorous single leader.
Woodland Consultancy, Grants and Management
Our sister company, Woodland Improvement Ltd offers a comprehensive forestry service to those who wish to create new plantations or manage existing woodlands. They offer professional advice on all aspects from woodland planning and establishment through to the felling and marketing of timber.
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